It seems an odd time of year to be writing about silky linings in quilted jackets, but as we recruit and prepare students for success in our Quilted Jacket class at Artistic Artifacts in early October, lining is on the materials list. What could be better, then than a list of online resources where linings can be easily purchased?
If you are planning to make a quilted jacket, it is smart to consider adding a silky lining. A true coat often has a silky lining, which makes it easier to put the coat on over layers of clothing. In our book, Sewing Quilted Patchwork Jackets, silky lining is used in 5 of the sample projects. We will discuss each one here and present some resources to guide your web search for a reliable silky lining.
Any of these linings can be used for either a free-hanging or quilted-in lining. All of the included linings can be washed on cold/gentle and hung to dry as well. If you are planning to use a silky fabric to line your quilted coat during the Quilted Jacket workshop at Artistic Artifacts, order it ahead of time; Artistic Artifacts does not stock silky lining in the shop.
Polyester Linings
The least expensive silky linings are made with polyester. They are durable, anti-static and pretty easy to use. You can find polyester lining in book projects #1 (Wholecloth Sleepy Bird) and #6 (Orphan Blocks with Front Band). Each project tells you how much lining was required for the sample size and what type of lining is included. Our student Michelle, who has made two amazing silky lined quilted jackets, found Fabric Wholesale Direct as a source and was pleased with the low price, color choices and quick delivery. The lining is called Polyester China Silk Lining and is also available in other online stores. It is a generous 58” wide. Check it out.
Our friends Fabric Mart Fabrics in nearby PA also offer polyester lining fabrics both online and in their Sinking Springs retail store. Much of what they sell is designer deadstock, so the inventory changes.
Rayon Lining
Rayon linings, also sometimes called Cupro, are very drapey and lovely but they also tend to be slippery. Carrie used one in book project #4 (Orphan Blocks with Collar) and Rae used it to line her Gold Bee Quilted Jacket, which was made before Sewing Quilted Patchwork Jackets was written. Rayon lining is also available under the trade name Bemberg in a number of colors through Fishman’s Fabrics and other online sources.
Silk Linings
Silk fabrics make beautiful linings for Quilted Jackets. Project #2 (Jelly Roll and Applique) has a silk Habotai lining as does the children’s project #9 (Patchwork Pattern). Sadly, during the pandemic, these fabrics went up in price and continue to remain high. Silk Habotai lining, also referred to as “China Silk,” is a very light weight plain weave lining that keeps garments cool and light weight. It is available in a range of colors through Fishman’s Fabrics. The online store JB Silks provides excellent information about sewing with silks, different types of silk, differences in weight and applications, and more. JB Silks offers Habatoi silk lining in two weights (8mm and 12mm) and a variety of colors.
Silk Crepe de Chine and even light weight Silk Charmeuse also make sumptuous lining for a coat that is very special; it is available in prints as well as solids. These can be found at J B Silks or other stores that sell fine fabrics. Check out this free-hanging charmeuse lining in the Prayer Flags Quilted Tabula Rasa Jacket that Rae made many years ago. These more luxurious silks are often used to line French style (think Chanel) jackets as well.Read more about French Jackets on our blog following this link. Test a sample of silk lining, especially if it is a dark or strong color or is vintage, before washing the entire piece.
Try Cotton First
Fine Cottons or quilting cottons can also be used for the third layer of a quilted coat. See samples of cotton print linings in book projects #3 (Assorted Patchwork), #5 (Reversible Collage), #6 (Repurposed Quilt Duster), #7 (Wholecloth and Collage) and Project #10 (Reversible Denim Vest).
Enjoy the Search
If you have a local fine fabric store, check out their linings before ordering online. They will probably be able to get you nice lining fast if you wish to patronize them, which is good business.
If you love to scroll through fabrics online, these three resources have multiple pages of linings available:
Stone Mountain & Daughter Fabrics (online and retail in Berkely CA)
University of Sewing (online and retail in Indianapolis IN)
Mood Fabrics (online and retail in Chicago and NYC)
A few additional thoughts
If you are not sure what color is the best match, order a swatch and keep your fingers crossed that they will be able to ship once you make a decision. The lining does not show anywhere on the outside, so a perfect match is not always necessary.
It is not hard to line a coat with silky lining, but can trickier to work with. Perhaps line your first quilted jacket in cotton and then add a silky lining to your next coat.
If you want help getting going sewing your quilted jacket, join us for the October 9-10 workshop at Artistic Artifacts, or for Fit for Art’s November 13-15 Sew Successfully Fall Retreat where we will be by your side with lots of helpful hints and extra information.
