Today’s blog post takes a close look at how to bind a sleeveless armhole, the final technique taught in V Neckline Variations for the Carpe Diem Dress & Tunic that hasn’t yet been covered in a blog post. The basic instructions for a sleeveless Carpe Diem utilize facings to finish the neckline and armhole. This alternative binding technique can be used to finish the sleeveless armhole with double fold bias tape, making it a nice companion to a Crossover V Yoke with Bias Bound Edges. More broadly, it may be used on any sleeveless Carpe Diem top or dress to finish the armhole edges without a facing, making the finished garment a little less bulky and adding an accent or contrast fabric if desired.
Prepare the Bias Binding
It is especially important the that the binding for this technique be cut on the bias so it will lie smoothly around the sharp curves in the armhole. You can purchase commercially made bias binding tape; the step-by-step photos in this post feature purchased Liberty of London 3/8″ bias binding tape. If making our own, we typically use bias tape that is finished to 1/2″ wide, so starting with a 2″ wide strip of fabric. For a refresher on making your own double fold bias binding, take a look at our blog post Make Binding Tape for a Quilted Jacket. The 1/2″ double fold binding for the dress Carrie is modeling was made from scraps of batik rayon.
Armhole Construction
When planning to use this technique to finish the armholes, there’s one small change to constructing the sleeveless Carpe Diem. At Step 5, simply sew the shoulder seams with regular stitches; there’s no need to hand baste. Press the shoulder seam allowances open and clean finish them as desired before applying the binding.
Insert the sleeveless side panels as usual for the basic View 2 instructions. The seam allowances in the side seams should be pressed together (not open) and towards the side panel/away from the front and back. Make sure to back stitch these side seams securely at the 5/8″ seam so the seam does not come apart in the next step.
Step-by-Step: Bind Armhole with Double Fold Bias Tape
Stay stitch around the entire armhole at 5/8″. Then, trim away the seam allowance just outside of the staystitching, being careful not to cut through the stitches.
Unfold the bias tape and pin one edge right sides together with the raw edge of the armhole. Begin at the center of the side panel, leaving an extra 1/2″ of binding free before beginning to pin. Pin tape around the entire armhole making sure it sits smoothly in the curves.
When you return to the beginning, cut off the excess bias tape leaving another 1/2″ for a seam allowance. Release a few pins on either side, enough to allow you to sew the two ends of the bias tape together to form a loop. Press the 1/2″ seam open and re-pin bias tape to armhole.
Stitch along the bias tape fold line around the armhole. Check stitching to ensure it is smooth all around and correct any mistakes if needed.
Press the the bias tape toward the armhole, using a ham or rolled up towel to press and shape along the sewn fold.
- Wrap the bias tape to the inside of the garment, pressing along its center fold, to cover the raw edge of the armhole.
- Pin the remaining folded edge of the bias tape along the stitching line inside the garment. Make sure it sits gently around the curves.
- Stitch along the fold of the bias tape to anchor the binding in place. This can be done by hand, stitching the fold to the seam on the inside, or by machine, top stitching from the outside of the garment.
- Give it a final press to make sure it all lays smoothly!
So Many Alternatives
While recent posts have been about binding finishes on a V Neckline Carpe Diem, check out samples in our photo gallery of scoop neckline Carpe Diems finished with a double fold bias tape, such as Rae’s Kimono Silk Pieced Tunic and Appliqued Linen Top.
Carrie has also finished sleeveless Carpe Diem tank tops with bias strips, such as the Floral Chambray Tank Top and Fans for Carpe Diem Tank Top. She used bias cut strips (but not double fold bias binding), applying Fit for Art’s method for finishing the necklines and sleeveless armholes of Tabula Rasa Knits to woven fabrics. This alternate binding technique is described in the blog post Finish a Carpe Diem with Binding.
Have you tried out any of these alternatives to a facing on your Carpe Diem top or dress, or have you found yet another technique? Please tell us about it in the comments!
Want help with learning new techniques, fitting or pattern work for variations? Come work one-on-one with Rae and Carrie at our Sew Successfully Fall Retreat. Registration is open and spaces are still available, so sign up now!
