Choosing an Interfacing

When to Use an Interfacing

There are a wide variety of fusible interfacings available to today’s sewer. Use them:

  • To provide support to the hems and closings of a jacket, dress or blouse.
  • At the neck and shoulders of a jacket, dress or blouse that requires more structure.
  • To equalize fabrics of different drape and weight when mixing fabrics in any type of garment.
  • For pants o support hems and slits or other details in hems, pocket edges, waist treatments and the opening where the zipper will be inserted

Types of Interfacings

Fusible sheer woven polyester, such as Bosal’s Envy Silk, provides light support for sheer and lightweight fabrics, like silk, with very little change to the hang or drape of the fabric.

Soft fusible tricot interfacing with two-way stretch, such as Bosal’s Soft Stretch, provide support to the fabric with very little change to the hang or drape of the fabric. If you want support that allows plenty of give in all directions, choose one of these interfacings.

Fusible tricot with one-way stretch, such as French Fuse, add a little crispness in addition to supporting the fabric. You can apply the interfacing so that the non-stretch runs in the direction that needs stability and the soft stretch runs in the direction where you want ease of movement.

Weft insertion interfacing, such as Bosal Weft Insertion, are very stable; when fused, they limit the fabric’s stretch on both the grain and the cross grain. They stretch a little on the bias, but overall give significant support to the fabric year after year.

Interfacing Tips

Use the fabric scraps left over after cutting out your garment to test the interfacing you think you want to use. Follow the fusing directions that come with the interfacing. A mix of steam, heat and pressure are required. A press cloth will keep the fusible interfacing residue from sticking to your iron. Silk organza is a great choice for a press cloth; it can take the heat but is see-through. Choose a scrap large enough to observe the change to the fabric’s drape and to test the interfacing’s effect on the fabric when it is folded and pressed (as it will be at the hems). Does the fusing material adhere well to your fabric? Does it show through on the right side of the fabric? If you are not satisfied, continue to experiment with other fusible interfacings.

If you are looking for others to try, an Interfacing Sampler of four of our favorite fusible interfacings is available in black or white from our store. We also offer an Interfacing Sampler for Knits, which has just two samples in black or white of fusible interfacing appropriate for knits and light weight fabrics.

If no fusible interfacings respond well to your fabric, use a traditional sew-in interfacing. A variety of sew-in interfacings are available for purchase, but sturdy fabrics such as cotton batiste, broadcloth and silk organza can also serve as an interfacing.

Let your samples be your guide and you will have a well-supported jacket ready for life’s bumps and curves.