V Neckline Variations is full of fun additions to the Carpe Diem Dress and Tunic pattern which we have been showing off this spring and summer. Today we will look at a top Rae made with scraps. She certainly did make the most of the pattern in fun and unexpected ways! Here she is to share a couple of her hacks with you.
This pattern/fabric conversation began with leftover SewBatik linen from Carrie’s Scalloped Linen Carpe Diem tunic which was featured in Threads Magazine Spring 2023 issue. I added cotton lawn that paired perfectly and was leftover from a summer romper made over 30 years ago. We love a scrappy project!
My hope was to push the limits of V Neckline Variations by creating faced tie sleeves plus a decorative back tie closure within a basic front scoop neckline combined with a V back. I also wanted to accent the neckline by favoring the contrast facing along the neckline. As the cut and construct phase progressed, it became apparent that the top, which was being shortened to fit on the limited length of linen fabric, would be too short for comfort. So, another scrappy solution to lengthen the hemline will close out this post.
Adjust the Pattern and Cut the Fabric
The body of the basic Carpe Diem top was shortened to fit on the available linen fabric. The tie sleeves required a bit of shortening as well. As you can see in the photo, the sleeves have been shortened just above the dot where the sleeve seam ends allowing for the tie to close easily. Every scrap of fabric was saved and came in handy later.
To cut the facings from the cotton print, I used the basic Carpe Diem front facing and the V Neckline Variation back facing patterns. The sleeve pattern was folded back from just above the dot slanting down toward the hemline to form a facing pattern for the tie sleeve. The back tie closure was drafted off the sleeve tie, but made a bit narrower and angled where it would sit in the back V neckline. You can see the addition on the stacked patterns in the photo.
Construct the Top
Construct the top according to the directions. The neckline facings were interfaced with Envy Silk fusible interfacing. When lining the sleeve, follow the directions to assemble the sleeves, then assemble the sleeve facings (which were not interfaced). Instead of hemming the sleeves as directed, pin and then stitch the facings around the hem, tie ends and sleeve opening.
Favor the Facings
Because I love the cheerful print that was used for the facings, I wanted it to peek outside of the top. This is called favoring the facings. When pressing the facings under, a small amount of facing fabric is manipulated to extend to the outside. Once it is evenly and well pressed, the facing is topstitched into place instead of edge stitching the facing to the seam allowance so it will not show. This technique was used on the sleeve hems and ties and on the neckline. Notice that the facings and hems of Carrie’s linen Tunic were also favored.
The back neckline ties were made with the print, stitched together with the wide end left open. That makes it easy to turn the ties, and then clean finish the open ends together. No need to favor these as they are the same fabric on each side. They were pinned then topstitched into place along the neckline topstitching line.
Making One More Scrappy Hack
When I put the top on it was so short that it was too short even to wear with high waisted wide leg pants. What to do? In these situations, I have to walk away and think. The solution seemed to be to add some sort of hem extension. A quick assessment of the leftover scraps showed that there was enough fabric to make hemline extension panels that would attach to each front, back and side section of the top. This technique has been used in previously made tops like the Kimono Silk Pieced Tunic and Hot Summer Circles.
The curved cuff pattern found in V Neckline Variations was easily manipulated into hem extensions. Each extension was cut from both the linen and lawn using the prepared patterns. Stitch each pair of linen and lawn, right sides together, around the curved sides leaving open the straight sides. Turn and carefully press the 4 separate sections to favor the facings to the outside before topstitching. Then pin them around the hemline, right sides together, stitch into place, and clean finish the raw edges of the hem and extensions together. If the panels have a tendency to flip up, topstitch the seam allowances to the top. I did not do this for mine because the linen and cotton fabrics behave very well together.
Be Playful and Creative with Trusted Patterns
Perhaps this was an unnecessary exercise, but both these fabrics were really calling to me. I enjoy a scrappy challenge to get my sewing mind working overtime. See the completed top All Tied Up in the photo gallery.
When you hit a roadblock, be sure to take a step away, consider all your options, then make the most of the pattern. Fit for Art’s variation patterns are designed to give you lots of extra ideas. For example, a curved cuff pattern is also found in Shirt Variations for the Tabula Rasa Jacket and a very similar cuff is found in Twin Set Variations for the Tabula Rasa Knits, so these can be adapted for many uses. A good idea can yield a lifetime of sewing fun!
Happy Sewing, RAE
