Everyone wants to put pockets in their handmade pants and we love pockets in well fitting pants too. There are several pocket designs available for the Eureka! Pants when you graduate from pants fitting to serious pant sewing. The Trouser Detail pattern offers a slash pocket design. The Sporty Details pattern has curved front pockets, a key pocket and back hip pockets. Our newest set of pants variations, the Glamour Details, offers both small patch pockets and fingertip pockets.
Let’s look at the fingertip pockets up-close with step-by-step photos of building these fun pockets. They are my personal favorite. I put fingertip pockets in all but my sheerest or dressiest pants. They are small cutaway pockets that sit below a classic Eureka! waistband or a contoured waistband from the Eureka! Glamour Details. Follow along in the direction booklet for additional directions and illustrations.
Prepare the Pattern Pieces
Cut out the small or large pocket template and shape it so the pocket pattern follows the slope of the top of your front pants pattern. As the Glamour Details instructions suggest, place the pocket approximately 2¼” away from the center front seam line. This pocket opening sits very close to the waist treatment, so be confident your waist positioning is correct before adding this pocket.
Once you have created your pattern piece, established the stitching line location and marked the pocket placement on your pants pattern, cut out a pocket and pocket lining for each pocket you want. I usually put a matched pair of large Fingertip Pockets on the front of my pants and I often make a cotton pocket lining no matter what fabric I am building my pants with.
Mark the Garment Pieces
On the wrong side of the pocket lining, draw the stitching line as a stitching guide. Cut a strip of fusible interfacing 1¼” wide by the length of the pocket and fuse it to the top of the pant extending across the marked pocket location.
Construct the Pocket
Lay the pocket lining right sides together on the pant front in the marked location. (In these photos I am making faux suede pants and have chosen a cotton that matches for the pocket lining.) Pin and then stitch the pocket opening into the top of the pant/pocket lining along the stitching lines.
Clip into the corners and trim away all but ¼” of fabric around the pocket opening.
Fold up the lining and flip it around to the wrong side of the pants. Manipulate it so there is a crisp angle at each corner of the pocket opening.
Press the pocket opening well so the lining fabric does not show on the front of the pants. Topstitch all around the pocket opening.
Working from the back of the pants, lay the pocket piece on top of the pocket lining. It will match around the edges and cover up the space that was cut away in the previous step.
Pin the pocket and pocket lining together then stitch the two pocket layers together around the 3 sides of the pocket. Clean finish the pocket with your preferred method.
Stay stitch along the top of the pants to attach the sides of the pocket to the pants along the waistline.
Finish Making the Pants
Now, the fronts are ready for pants construction. Finish the top of the pant with your chosen waistband, either a contoured waistband adapted with the Glamour Details or a classic waistband from the basic Eureka! pattern. (This pocket is not successful in the faced pant style from the basic Eureka! pattern.)
More about Pockets
Why do I love these pockets so much? First of all, they do not create openings along the side seams. The small opening along the waistband is very secure. Secondly, I only use my pockets for small things: cough drops, a hotel room key (before Covid 19), a $20 bill and my compact car key. This is not a pocket for a large cell phone or heavily laden key ring. I carry these in my backpack.
As you begin developing your own pants, think about what you want to put in your pockets, then choose patterns that have pockets to accommodate your needs.
Take advantage of this week’s I-Sew-Lation Sale for specials on our Eureka! Pants Starter Kit or Pants Mock-up Kit and Pants Detail Bundle. If you purchase the pants starter or mock-up kit, you will be entitled to an e-mail sizing consultation before you begin and one 45 minute Zoom fitting consultation when your pants mock-up is ready to be nuanced. Grab this deal while you can; it is a steal!
Stay well and sew happy, RAE
Want to Read more? Try these links to previous posts on the topic of Glamour Details and Eureka! Pants Pockets.