Sewing pants does not feel creative, but designing pants that fit and work flawlessly with our wardrobe is so satisfying. Glamour Details for Eureka! Pants that Fit features several little details that can make your pants more fun and functional. Plus, the wide leg is so on trend!
These very light weight denim glamour pants have been a welcome addition to my summer-to-fall wardrobe. They feature the widened glamour silhouette and curved cuffs which add nice weight at the hemline. I used the Hollywood waistband pattern but dropped it ¾” at the top which feels really comfortable. Usually I stitch fingertip pockets into the front waistband seam of my pants, but for this light weight fabric, I chose to add a pair of small patch pockets in the back.
It is the small patch pocket we will look at closely today. Small pockets need just as much attention in constructing the details as big ones. Placement of a patch pocket is important too.
The Glamour Details instruction booklet walks you through the pocket construction, but here are some additional tips for nicely made, unlined pants pockets:
- Cut a strip of fusible interfacing 2” wide and the width of the pocket opening. For these pants, I used envy silk for light weight support.
- Serge or edge finish the pocket’s raw edges.
- Fold back the top of the pocket along the fold line; we refer to this as a reverse fold. (In terms of construction, the right sides are folded together; later the facing flips to wrong sides together for finishing and placing the pocket.)
- Stitch around the raw edges, just shy of the seam line, 9/16” to be exact, capturing the facing into the stitching.
- Clip each corner of the top of the pocket, then turn the facing back so wrong sides are together and the interfacing is captured in the folded down facing.
- Press the facing in place and continue to press the 5/8” seam allowance toward the wrong side of the pockets. Topstitch or hand stitch the pocket facing into place.
- Clip out the extra fabric in the curved seam allowances at the bottom of the pocket to reduce bulk.
- Pin the pockets to the constructed pants at the desired location. We do not tell you where to place them because we know this is a personal preference. I decided to put mine up high on the back to minimize the possibility that things could slip out when sitting or walking.
- Use a ruler to check that the placement is even on both sides. Double check the placement by trying on the pants and looking in the mirror. Or, have a friend take a photo so you can see how the look.
In a future post, we will look more closely at the front fingertip pockets, which are hardly visible.
I always pair my fashionably wide glamour pants with short or snug tops so the fullness in the leg is balanced with slim contours on top.
Happy Sewing RAE
PS – Need to get started on your Eureka! Pants? Take a class at the Novi MI Original Sewing and Quilt Expo in November or in February at Red Stone Glen near Harrisburg PA. Want to teach about Eureka Pants or use them to expand your sewing related business? Sign up for our Eureka! Pants Professional Licensing class at the ASDP Annual Conference in October.