Are you sewing a Tabula Rasa Jacket with Jean Jacket Variation yet? I hope it is on your fall sewing calendar. This new variation offers some styling choices we love. Later in the fall we will look at the classic jean jacket collar and cuff details. Today we will enjoy the fanciful ruffle and pocket details on my scrap happy Ruffled Jean Jacket.
This pile of denim scraps had been accumulating for years, leftovers from other projects. Each was too interesting to land in the scrap bag but too small to make a complete garment. As always, I chose slimming fabrics for the jackets body, taking advantage of the piecing included in the pattern. A soft tweedy piece worked perfectly for the sleeves and an interesting Asian print denim was large enough for the yoke and cuff bands.
The small eyelet bordered denim really intrigued me, but it was so small. As I was organizing the fabric for the jacket, I considered using it for the collar and cuffs, but there was not enough for any style we were considering.
The pocket flaps were the best option, but it meant the border would have to be placed along the straight side that covers the pocket opening and attaches to the yoke. (All the directions for creating the pocket are included in Jean Jacket Variations.)
The photos show how I folded the seam allowance away on the straight side of the flap pattern to properly position the border. Then, I built the flap so the eyelet edge sits just underneath the seam line. Once the flap was constructed, the eyelet edge was stitched to the under flap so it sits securely on the jacket.
Love it when I can work some magic and include a favorite scrap successfully into a new design!
Using the lightest weight denim scrap, really a dark chambray, I created the collar and cuff ruffles. It is not a traditional jean jacket look, but I love it as the icing on this pieced jacket confection. All the pattern pieces and directions for cutting, constructing and attaching the ruffled collar and cuffs is in Jean Jacket Variations.
Instead of jean tack buttons, I used a collection of vintage plastic buttons as closures. Another unorthodox choice was to use a 1” machine stitched hem instead of the classic hem band and tabs.
I don’t think the hem band flatters my body type and I felt the ruffles and piecing provided enough visual interest. I chose to cut the jacket on the long side so it would work over many of my Tabula Rasa Knit tops. The directions for integrating a turned-up hem into the double fold front placket are also in the direction booklet.
Have you added Jean Jacket Variations for the TRJ to your Tabula Rasa Jacket pattern collection? Unlined Jean Jackets are just right for early Fall weather and can be made for almost any occasion. They are fun to embellish too. I am considering making one from Chinese Brocade, what do you think?
Nervous about working with Jacket Variation Patterns or just getting started on your Tabula Rasa Jacket journey? Come sew with us in Baltimore next week at our informal Sew Successfully Summer retreat August 20-24. It is the perfect time to try using a new fabric, pattern or technique.
Happy Sewing, RAE
PS, Would you like us to have a Sew Along about using the Jean Jacket Variation Pattern? Tell us what you would like us to include and how you like a Sew Along formatted. Thanks