Home Dec Hooded Jacket

Coordinating Jacket Fabric

Coordinating Jacket Fabric

Last winter I searched my studio for zippers and stash fabric to test the Rain or Shine Variations (RSV) for the Tabula Rasa Jacket (TRJ).  One of my favorite finds was a navy home decorator remnant I had purchased years ago at G-Street Fabrics.  I remember loving the art-deco print and colors so much I could not resist the ½ price remnant.  It was even stored away with several coordinating navy fabrics and a long brass and navy separating zipper.  I had everything I needed.

A view of the back, note the pin-stripe flat piping and the hood to jacket match.

A view of the back, note the pin-stripe flat piping and the hood to jacket match.

My design vision was for a sturdy knock-around jacket.  I decided to leave it unlined since the fabric had plenty of body and structure.  There was a limited amount of fabric, so I chose to use a simple double faced navy on each side panel.  Even though the navy fabric was sturdy, it felt limp next to the home dec fabric so I underlined the sides with a light weight pin- striped silk I had used for pants several years ago.  I also used the pin-striped silk on the bias for flat piping to break up the print between the body, sides and cuffs and to make inseam kangaroo pockets.  Directions for inseam kangaroo pockets are included in the Band Variations and Pockets pattern.  They extend from the side seam to the zipper opening where they anchor neatly for an excellent unlined jacket finish.  The heavier uneven striped silk twill was used to make the facings, hood lining and the inside of the roll back cuff.

Underlined side panel and interior kangaroo pocket.

Underlined side panel and interior kangaroo pocket.

The jacket length was determined by the amount of fabric available and the length of the zipper.  I remember buying the zipper at Rose City Textiles in Portland 5 years ago during the ASDP conference with this fabric in mind.

Since the coat was a test sample and intended for knock-around wear, I did not do any fine finishes.  All the seams are simply serge finished with a 3 thread overlock.  The hems and other finishes were topstitched on the machine.  The facings and cuffs were interfaced so they would be sturdy enough to control the base fabric.

Cuff close up

Cuff close up

Note that the brim of the hood is seamed in the middle. This is an excellent technique if your fabric has a directional print that needs to move up the hood on each side.  I regret that I was not able to match the print perfectly, but since I had barely enough fabric to cut the hood out, I can live with the slight hiccup in the pattern’s match.

Center match on the hood.

Center match on the hood.

Have you made a zip-up or hooded RSV yet?  Take a tour through your stash; I bet there is a fabric that will be perfect for a transitional jacket like this one.

The finished jacket!

The finished jacket!

Fabric stores such as JoAnn’s sell some separating zippers in basic colors. Click here to check out our list of resources for ordering zippers online if you want something unique or a special color.

Happy Sewing, RAE

11 Responses to “Home Dec Hooded Jacket”

  1. RLL November 1, 2016 at 6:23 pm #

    That looks so nice.

    • Rae Cumbie November 1, 2016 at 9:23 pm #

      Thanks everyone, it is fun to wear! It was fun to make. RAE

      • Judy Rath November 2, 2016 at 4:04 pm #

        That jacket is just plain BEAUTIFUL!!! TC is correct, that jacket may disappear if it comes to Buffalo!

  2. TC Ferrito November 1, 2016 at 6:47 pm #

    Don’t bring this jacket to Buffalo. It may disappear! Love the print and how it all came tgether.

  3. Glenda Barnes November 1, 2016 at 6:49 pm #

    Love the jacket. I can’t wait to get my piece of home dec to make my jacket.
    Glenda

  4. Suzanne Streagle November 1, 2016 at 7:59 pm #

    This is a dramatic and stunning jacket. The home dec fabric is wonderful !

  5. Dorothy Wheat November 1, 2016 at 8:00 pm #

    This is one of the most beautiful jackets I have seen
    in a long time. Thanks for sharing all your photos.

  6. Jeanette York November 1, 2016 at 10:09 pm #

    Hi…very nice!! A great idea and I like the fact that you didn’t feel compelled to fully line it. I also use partial linings and feel that lining decisions are an important part of the craft. Very nice work…good theme…good result.

  7. Carol November 2, 2016 at 3:31 pm #

    I really love your jacket. I guess that I too will be looking for home dec fabric. I think your blue fabric just makes the finished jacket just perfect.

  8. Jane M November 2, 2016 at 11:57 pm #

    Perfect fabric for this lovely jacket.

  9. Sally November 3, 2016 at 5:57 pm #

    I LOVE IT!!!!!!

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