Boucle Carpe Diem Dress

Enjoy this close look at Rae’s first boucle Carpe Diem dress. It is made with the large piece of Boucle left on the cutting table after the tiny jean jacket mash-up pieces were cut and stitched together for her friend Sally. Sally’s personalized size small Carpe Diem pattern fit just right on the remaining fabric, with an effort to match the weave and enough fabric for a short sleeve.

Rae and Carrie have both made boucle Tabula Rasa Jackets and Rae has made boucle skirt suits and coats for Sally, but neither have ever made a boucle dress. Here are Rae’s suggestions, so you can sew successfully too.

Rae’s Boucle Dress Tips

The first thing I did, which I do when facing a new task, is read the advice of those I consider experts. When it comes to  boucle sheath dresses, Helen Haughey reigns supreme. Her 2014 article for Threads Magazine and guest blog post for Goodbye Valentino were terrific starting points.

After reading her excellent directions, I reached out to her as we are long-time Association of Sewing and Design Professionals friends and colleagues. I inquired if cotton batiste or silk organza were better for a spring/summer dress. After a fun email catch-up with Helen, I chose silk organza because there was already some on the shelf and I could get started quickly.

The boucle and organza were cut out in all the CD pieces, Sleeves, Backs, Sides, and one Front on the fold. I was taught by Susan Khalje during my first boucle project, a jacket, to use 1” wide seams because the fabric frays like crazy. I cut each piece a little bit bigger along the seam lines.

Next, the boucle pieces were underlined with the silk organza. Working on a clean, flat surface, the pieces were pressed, stacked, pinned and then hand-stitched together. The organza stabilizes the boucle and gives the fabric additional body. 

The underlined pieces were then stitched together using the CD order of construction with a back invisible zipper and hem slit.

Once you reach this place, the dress looks like a fright on the inside. Good thing the plan is to fully line it. In classic boucle structure, the lining is stitched in by hand to finish the neck and sleeve edges, the hem and all the interior seams. The front and back lining pieces were joined at the shoulder seams and then hand-stitched into the seam allowance of the side seams. Be sure to gently pull or carefully trim away yarns that have unraveled in the seam allowance. These were saved and used in the scrap lace flower that looks great on the dress or the jacket.  

Next, the sleeve/side lining pieces are joined at the underarm seam and the seam allowance is pressed under all around the long raw edge. Match the top of the sleeve/shoulder seam, notches and side dots on the underarm seams as directed in the pattern, then pin generously to secure the pressed under edge along the seam line, covering all the layers. Hand stitch them carefully for a neat finish on the inside.

The final step is to press under and clip as needed around the boucle dress neck opening, zipper opening, hem slit, and hems. Press under the lining pieces, pin, and then carefully stitch the lining into place for the finishing instead of adding facings.

As you see, the lining was pieced because the best color matches from my lining stash were all a little too small. The sleeve lining is leftover from the coordinating jacket. I am intentionally working to use up my many boxes of lining pieces, which were recently reorganized and consolidated. It adds nothing but fun color play and a nod to sustainable sewing to piece a lining like this. 

Is there a boucle or other loosely woven fabric on your shelf that needs a purpose? How about a Boucle Carpe Diem Dress or a Tabula Rasa Jacket or Vest? It is the perfect time to sew these great transitional weather fabrics to perk up your wardrobe.

Happy Sewing, RAE