Finish a Tabula Rasa Knit Tunic with the swing side using a contrasting band hem. This is such a great alternative on a shaped hem that resists a straight finish. Plus, a hem band offers up another place to use a contrasting fabric and provides weight for better drape on particularly light weight knit fabric.
In our post Knit Tee Hems we discussed a hem band on a basic tee where there are no pointed ends to manage. Here is a method that lets the points of a swing side hang with ease and style.
Recently I made a new knit tunic in a fun summer print and finished the neck band and sleeve hem with some hot pink scraps in my stash. It seemed to me that the hot pink would provide a good finish along the hem too. Like any good hem finish, it goes on at the very end of the construction process.
Prepare the Hem Bands
Once the tunic is constructed and checked for fit and hem length, measure both the front and back hemlines from point to point. The front should be a few inches longer than the back.
For this ⅜” wide finish with a ⅝” seam on each side, two 2” wide strips were cut with the rotary cutter. An extra 1” was added to each calculated length to allow for ½” to turn under and finish each raw edge.
Turn under the short ends of each strip and press them in half along the long side.
Attach the Hem Bands
Lay one strip on the side it was cut for. Align the turned edge to the ⅝” seam placement on each corner. Pin the strip in place while working on a flat surface. It is best if the band fits smoothly along the hem; it should not be stretched, but neither should it be lumpy because it is too long. Working on a table will keep the pieces from stretching as they are pinned. Trim the length if necessary for the best placement.
Next lay the second strip on the other side of the hemline and align it with the ⅝” seam placement, again keeping is smooth and pinning it in place on a flat surface.
Begin in the middle of the back and stitch the hem band to the tunic carefully pivoting at each corner. Check the seam on each side to confirm that it is attached smoothly.
Finish the Hem Band Cleanly
Finish the band hem with a serged or zig-zag finish, taking the seam down to at least ⅜ of an inch.
Press the hem band down, away from the top.
Stitch the seam allowance to the top all along the hemline at ⅛” to ¼” to keep the band neatly extending beyond the top. Press it one more time to set the band in place.
The current issue of Classic Sewing Magazine has an article about repurposing team tees into fashion tunics. Page 92 of the magazine features a photo of a top made from an Orioles Tee using this technique. The contrasting band works to gather together all the different elements of the tunic into a unified whole.
See another Tee redesign that also uses a band hem in Snazzy B-More Tunic.
Our cover model is Emrie, one of the travelers on Fit for Art’s La Cascade adventure in southern France. Her luggage went missing for a couple of days, so she borrowed some of my clothes. She kept trying to buy this tunic, so comfortable and colorful she said, but we convinced her to come make her own at our Fall Retreat. Stay tuned to see Emrie’s own designs later in the fall. Also, watch on Social Media this week to see me wearing the tunic out and about. A fabulous knit for everyday summer wear!
