Sewing up a Jean Jacket Variation of the Tabula Rasa Jacket (TRJ) is a great project for this stay-at-home time. It is not hard, but there is lots of pattern work and basic sewing involved in the Classic Jean Jacket. Now that you have some extra time, give it a try.
Today we will take a close look at creating the double fold placket and classic collar in our Jean Jacket (JJ) pattern. We will use my grey TRJ JJ for our visuals. It is embellished with fabric postcards. If you are interested in the fabric postcards, read last year’s post Sew Parisian Postcards. (As a diversion, create some of these postcards, put a backing on them, slide them in an envelope and mail them to special friends during this time of social isolation.) Now on to the Jean Jacket construction details.
Pattern Markings are Essential
You begin the TRJ JJ making process with pattern work that involves a template and a traced copy of your basic TRJ pattern. In order to successfully create the placket and neatly add the collar, make sure to mark on the fabric the dot at center front and the two separate fold lines that are on the template.
Iron in the Placket
Fold and press along each marked fold line on both fronts to create the placket. This pressing work makes the process proceed much more smoothly.
Once it is pressed, reverse fold along the second fold line and pin the reverse fold in place at the neckline so you can form the finished neck opening.
Anchor the Placket at the neckline
Stitch from the outside fold line to the marked dot which is in the center of the placket on each neckline.
Clip through all layers from the cutting line to just above the dot.
Grade the fabric in the seam to reduce bulk.
Turn the placket right side out. The seam will have created a clean edge notch in the placket so the jacket can easily cross under the collar when closed.
Prepare the Collar
Cut two collars. For this jacket I cut the under collar in the grey jacket fabric and the upper collar in a floral print.
Interface both collars with an appropriate weight interfacing. A jean jacket requires a sturdy collar.
Pin and then sew the two collars together around the three exterior sides. Press the seams open over a point turner if one is available. Grade the seams and trim extra fabric from the points for a clean angle at each point.
Turn the collar to the right side and press well.
Put the Collar on the Jacket
Open up the collar and pin just the under collar to the jacket neckline right sides together. The seam of the collar should line up perfectly with the remaining placket seam.
Stitch the under collar to the jacket, check its placement, then clip the seam on the curves.
Press under the 5/8” seam allowance of the upper collar, then pin this folded edge in place so it covers the seam holding the collar on the jacket.
Neatly hand stitch this side of the collar to the neckline. You will be directed later to topstitch the placket and collar for a classic JJ finish.
What do you need to get started making a TRJ JJ? We are happy to ship you the JJ Variation pattern if you don’t have it already. Surely there is some denim, home dec fabric or bottom weight fabric in your stash you can use to stitch up this casual jacket.
If you need interfacing, we have it in sampler packs or by the yard. Order our pattern drafting kit if you need pattern tracing paper and rulers to create your JJ fronts and back. Order our JJ tool kit for authentic buttons, topstitching thread and more.
Stay Well and Sew Happy, RAE
PS Mark your calendars for next Tuesday evening when Carrie and I will be doing a webinar for Pam Damour’s webinar series. It will be on fitting and stitching up well fitting Tabula Rasa Jackets. Watch our newsletter for a link to view the event at 7PM Eastern time.
PSS. Want to make masks for friends, family or the health care community during this crisis? Visit the American Sewing Guild’s collaboration page for directions and more information. http://www.weneedmasks.org/