Sewing navy Eureka! Pants with Glamour Details has finally moved to the top of my to do list. While I worked on the pants, I photographed a number of the details to share with you. Today we will look closely at the Curved Cuffs so you can be empowered to create them on your own pants.
I love this element of the Glamour Details variations because it adds style and weight to wide leg pants. The drapey fabric used to make wide leg pants often hangs better with a double turned hem or cuff finishing the pants.
The cuff pattern is created after the legs of the Eureka! Pants pattern are widened for the Glamour silhouette. Begin by finding the pattern adjustment directions on page 8 and cut out the front and back cuff template pattern. Measure the pant leg and adjust the template, then cut, interface and assemble the lined curved cuffs.
When I cut out the cuffs, I paid attention to the fabric’s subtle weave which had a faint stripe along the grain. To make the pants more interesting, I cut the cuffs on the cross grain so the stripes go around the cuff in relation to the lengthwise stripe of the pant leg.
It is best to choose an interfacing that supports the cuff but does not change the drapey nature of the fabric. My navy fabric was a light weight woven rayon blend so I chose the Envy Silk which gives very light weight support and shaping. I fused the interfacing to one layer of the lined cuff to keep things swingy.
The self-lined cuff was assembled paying careful attention as I stitched each curved end into the correct mirror image shape. The seam of each cuff was graded and v-shaped clips removed bulk from the curved seam allowances.
Use a pressing tool like a point presser, sleeve roll or shoulder stand to press open the seam before turning it right side out and pressing it flat.
Once the pants were constructed, I put them on and determined the desired hemline. Then I calculated how much of the pant length needed to be removed before adding the cuff and creating the peak-a-boo hem shown on page 14 of the direction book.
Because I was lining these pants, I inserted the lining and then finished the lining hem over the top of the cuff so it covered the seam attaching the cuff to the pants.
I made sure there was a little give in the lining length, then hand stitched it into place.
Have you tried these cuffs yet? They would also be fun at the hemline of some cropped pants. Especially if you were short on fabric and wanted a way to add some extra length. Including this cuff detail on your pants adds a personalize touch and stylish flare to your Eureka! Pants wardrobe.
Need to get started on your Eureka! Pants journey? We are teaching a Eureka! Pants that Fit class in Denver, CO June 15-16 at the Denver Fashion Incubator sponsored by the Denver Chapter of the Association of Sewing and Design Professionals. Coming to the American Sewing Guild’s Annual Conference August 1-4 in Boston, MA? We will be offering Eureka! Pants sizings in our booth and a Contemporary Pants Wardrobe class; register on the ASG website for the class. Or sign up for our Sew Successfully Summer Retreat August 20-24 in Baltimore. Now is the perfect time to get started sewing your own pants.
Happy Sewing, RAE
P.S. Check out the blog post by Judy Huhn http://www.chickenlittlesews.com/ about her experience with the Eureka! Pants pattern; it is a wonderful testament to the success you can have, too.