It’s a stash busting week again as we look at my orange linen unlined duster made with the Rain or Shine Variations (RSV) for the Tabula Rasa Jacket (TRJ). Like last week’s black and white top, this warm orange colored topper is perfect for the change of seasons here in the mid- Atlantic. It can be dressed up with my dusty blue silk suiting Eureka! pants or dressed down with my light weight denim Eureka’s with the tapered leg and hem slit.
I believe the orange linen was acquired at a fabric swap or stash buster sale years ago. If you have followed this blog over the years, you know that I am fond of subdued oranges. On my trips to France, I have visited La Droguerie in Toulouse. La Droguerie is a chain of magical little stores full of trims, buttons, yarn and craft ideas artfully displayed in vintage sewing cabinets. There is an entire display of bias tape made from Liberty of London lawn. The first time I discovered this display I brought one meter pieces of my 10 favorites and gifted many to my sewing friends. One that I kept was an orange trim that looked great with the orange linen. I began to ponder the possibilities.
On my next trip to France, I was more intentional, buying Liberty bias with orange prints that coordinated. I also bought a fat quarter of Liberty lawn and covered buttons that matched the orange bias trim.
The collard view of the Rain or Shine Variations was the perfect tableau for these materials. The center front opening with button and loop closures allowed for several trims to be featured prominently. The bias tape became the edge finish for the jacket. I eliminated the facings to keep things from getting bulky. I did use the coordinating Liberty print to add an interfaced second layer to the collar and a back support in the shoulder area of the jacket.
When you are finishing a garment with a bias wrapped edge, the seam allowances usually used to attach the facing or other finish are no longer needed. I trimmed the 5/8” seam allowances away everywhere I was finishing the edge with the bias tape. Then I clean finished these edges with a 3 thread overlock on the serger. I stitched slowly and carefully to avoid stretching the linen.
The shoulder and collar area where constructed next. Visit Instagram to see the step by step photos of finishing the shoulder seam with the shoulder support and covering the collar seams with the bias tape.
The body and sleeves of the jacket were constructed with French seams. The bias finishes were added to the finished edges using these steps:
- Begin by unfolding one pre folded edge of the tape.
- Align the right side of the unfolded edge along the wrong side of the raw edge of the jacket that is to be finished.
- Stitch the tape to the jacket in the ditch formed by the tapes unfolded fold.
- Gently press the pre fold back into the tape along the seamline.
- Then fold and finger press the tape to the front of the jacket leaving the tape folded along the pre folded edge. Press lightly to set the turn, pin if desired.
- Topstitch the tape in place close to the folded edge.
Once all the jacket edges and curs were finished, I used the leftover trims to finish the top edge of 4 pockets. Each pocket took on the size of the leftover piece of trim. The various sizes of the pockets add a bit of fanciful style to this rather classic jacket. I have to credit Carrie with this idea. When I was deciding about pocket placement and fretting that the trim bits were not all big enough she said “just make 4 different size pockets”. And voila! It worked.
Are you stash busting this fall? Have you made bold design decisions lately that were successful? Have you finished an edge with bias tape? We would love to hear about your sewing adventures.
Happy Sewing, RAE
- If you google Liberty of London Bias Tape you will find some online sources. The selection is not as wonderful as at La Droguerie, but it might be more accessible for you.