Asymmetrical Top with Circle Design

In early spring we wrote about an asymmetrical front opening—another new design that uses a personalized Tabula Rasa Jacket pattern. If you have not tried this design, now is a good time to pull out your pattern and try these pattern adjustments by following the step-by-step directions in the blog. You will end up with a terrific new transitional season garment. Follow along as Rae sews an asymmetrical top with circle design.

Gather Materials and Prepare the Pattern

Today let’s look at some fun surface design circles that decorate an asymmetrical Tabula Rasa Jacket Rae made for her friend Susie. She used the scraps from several of her tops and coats with kimono fabric details, including her Carpe Diem featured in the post Fabric Inspiration – Pre Packaged.

The fabric for this top is a double-faced fabric with a silky twill on the front and a gauze on the back. It had been on the shelf forever. The fabric is very versatile and luscious but not really drapey or crisp. The decorated asymmetrical design seemed perfect for this fabric, as there was enough body to support the appliqués but still allow for a soft hand.

Create the Decorative Circle Appliqués

Circles have always fascinated Rae, and she discovered early on that in order for circles to keep their shape on soft fabric, they need to be backed by Steam-a-Seam 2, Sulky’s Perfect Appliqué, or some other lightweight fusible bonding product. Be sure to make some samples to test out ideas. 

Here are photos of the double-sided bonding product being cut into circle shapes using some found objects around the studio, the fabric loosely organized on the fronts to plan the design, and the cutout circles being strategically placed onto the kimono fabric to make great appliqués.

To create the appliqués, peel back one side of the bonding product and position it on the wrong side of the kimono fabric. Press it in place and then cut out each circle. Once some cut circles are in hand, position them on the cutout fronts and back to create a design. This step is great to do at the beginning of a busy day, then visit the planned pieces every now and then during the day to observe the composition. Rearrange them until you have a pleasing design. If you have time, spend several days with this step.

During this design work, it seemed like another background fabric was needed here and there to anchor the circle groups. Rae chose black silk organza, and its stiff nature meant it could remain sheer and did not require the bonding product. It really lightened the look and anchored some of the diverse kimono prints.

Attach the Circles to the Jacket

Once positioned, the circles’ second backing side was peeled away and they were pressed in place.  A machine blanket stitch was used to attach each circle to the desired jacket section before construction.  These projects are not quick but they yield really great looks. Once the appliqués are attached, construct the top using the pattern’s directions. For this top, the front, back, right sleeve and left side panel were decorated to vary the design and align the decoration with the asymmetrical front and shorter band needed for this TRJ redesign.

Use the Pattern Again with Different Details

Keep an eye out in a few weeks to see another asymmetrical TRJ—the completion of the vest using the same fabric that was shown in the pattern work blog post. That vest has painted, pieced and embroidered fabric. Same shape, but totally different look.

Are you doing some fun surface design work or TRJ redesign work this season? Share your projects with us here. Everyone in our community is anxious to see them.

Play well with your fabric! RAE