Welcome to Sew! Let’s Get Dressed, a weekly blog that encourages you to sew successfully.
Partial linings are perfect for warm weather sewing when you need a neat finish but don’t want the heat of a full lining. Thank the South Carolina ASG group for this post, they asked about partial linings and so we will oblige. Let’s look at the development, insertion and finishing of the lining for my ruffled Tabula Rasa Jacket (TRJ) we visited last week.
The lining is light weight china silk (silk habitué), the best cool and slippery finish I know of. Because it is a mauve color, it will be easy to see how it fits into the jacket.
I used the same TRJ pattern pieces to cut the lining that I used to cut the jacket. No sleeves were cut, only the fronts, back and sides. Each pattern piece was shortened 1” to account for the jacket hem. Interfacing (soft stretch) was cut from the high HBL to the shoulder for the fronts and back to add some shoulder structure in this soft jacket.
Partial linings are constructed like vests. The directions for vests are found in detail in the Swing Variations for the TRJ. The top of each side panel is clean finished, in this case I did a ¼ then 3/8” double turn hem. The sides are inserted into the body of the jacket. Each should align with the dot in the back and dart in the front. The final step is to finish the armhole edges with a single or double turn hem.
This lining was inserted after the silk TRJ was constructed and the ruffles were stitched around the front opening.
Turn the lining wrong side out and lay it with right sides together on the jacket. The ruffle will be sandwiched between the jacket and the lining. Pin it in place folding up the last ½” of the lining so it sits above the hemline.
Stitch the lining in place. You should have the turned lining, the ruffle ending at the hemline, and the jacket hem extending below the ruffle. Turn the hem up backwards so it is right sides together with the jacket and covering the edge of the ruffle and the lining. Stitch it into the seam on both fronts.
Turn the seam inside to view the finished hem edges. Press the hem and lining in place. Trim off any of the seam allowance inside the jacket so it lays flat.
Hand stitch the jacket hem to the jacket. Then hand stitch the lining jump over the edge of the jacket hem. Visit the Helpful Hints tab to find step by step illustrations of our favorite hem stitch if you are not sure how to stitch the hems in place.
The final step to complete a partial lining is to hand tack the lining to the shoulder and armhole seams. Use a chain stitch or my favorite, threads strengthened with a blanket stitch. Leave at least ¼” of ease between the two layers.
There is a video posted on Facebook that shows me creating one of these thread anchors on this very jacket. Try it yourself when you need to connect a lining to its garment, make a small button loop or add bustle loop to an evening gown train.
Have you ever inserted a partial lining? Sometime, like in this ruffled silk jacket, it is the perfect finish.
Happy Sewing, RAE
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