Double Gauze for cool tops

Here are Fit for Art’s Tips for cutting and sewing Double Gauze for cool tops. Because this fabric is one of Rae’s daughter’s favorites, she has been stitching up Carpe Diems for Anna for 3 years, including during her maternity and nursing days.

Close to delivery, this top is cool on a hot day.

Double gauze is a double faced fine cotton fabric. The layers are connected in the weaving process so while its elements are very fine and thin, it has some loft and essentially no drape.

Because it is 100% cotton, it is essential to prewash by the same method you plan to use when the garment is finished. Be forewarned that the fabric will draw up and crinkle, making it seem much smaller than the yardage you originally ordered. There might be some shrinkage, but you can press out the crinkles when pressing the seams during construction so the garment doesn’t get all out of whack. Press especially well along the selvages, which get really crinkly.
Choose designs that are not too form fitting such as the Carpe Diem Top or Shirt Variations for the Tabula Rasa Jacket.
Before cutting, press well again. When resting the fabric pulls up but it will stretch again when wearing, so work with the pressed-out fabric.
Anchor pattern pieces well with fine pins or weights. It can shift about on the table
It has a tendency to snag, so use very fine sewing pins and a fine universal needle. A size 70 or 80 machine needle is recommended.
Make a sample seam to check whether a walking foot is needed.
If you think you might need to release a seam, use a slightly lighter or darker thread than a perfect match. Stitches are very hard to see on this fabric.
Use a wide enough seam, ⅝” is perfect, so adjustments can be made. Press seams open if possible to keep the volume down. Start seams a few stitches inside the edge of the fabric, then reverse. Seams begun right at the outer edge can get caught up the machine.
Give seams a clean finish as the fabric can be ravelly. A three thread overlock or a zigzag will work great, or even french seams.
Staystitch around any neckline edge to avoid stretching, which is not unusual in loosely woven fabrics.
Anchor shoulder seams with a strip of interfacing. Interface facings and consider using a contrast plain woven fabric as the facing or binding to minimize bulk.
Press lightly through construction.
If you like a crisp edge, topstitch.
Hand stitched hems are really lovely; with all the layers and crinkles, the stitches are invisible.

This top has some seams pressed open and some french seams. It was the first one Rae made.

Choose a soft but not wimpy interfacing if needed. This double gauze shirt variation made for nursing has an envy silk interfacing.

Double gauze is currently the darling of the baby industry, used for sleep sacks, covers for changing tables, and clothing to note a few uses.

A changing pad cover Rae made for the nursery.

That means it is available in many different colors, metallic glazes, and prints. There is a nice selection at Style Maker Fabrics where some of the fabrics for Anna’s maternity and nursing tops came from. Any reputable online fabric store and quilt store will have a variety to choose from.